A power cord is a type of cable that uses an extension cord or wall socket to establish a connection between an electricity source and an appliance. The type of cord you use might depend on your country and the voltage requirements of your supply.
However, one thing is certain – power cords are incredibly versatile. You can use them to power a wide range of products ranging from household appliances like refrigerators and ovens to entertainment products like computers and TVs.
If you want to get the most out of your cord, it is vital to use it properly. Here are some pointers about things that you should and shouldn’t do when using power cords.
Here is a neat trick that will not only improve safety but also ensure that you avoid clutter. Change your way of thinking and look for ways to bring your appliance near to the cord as possible.
Instead of using a cord that’s 50-feet long, try finding a way to get the device closer to it. First, it will look better because you won’t have all that cord stretched out across your home or office. Additionally, you will increase safety because you will minimize tripping over the wire.
You can even use a retractable power cord. These are incredibly convenient for transport, and you can quickly move it from your home to the office. It is even better to consider having a separate cord for each location. Moving them may also cause damage, and keeping them in one place might prolong their lifespan.
Do you have a lot of cables around your home? Are you having problems to identify your TV power cord from a PC one? If you are a tech lover that owns many appliances, you might need a bit of help in classifying your cables.
The professionals often resort to using a color-coding system. It is a simple approach that assigns a color to the cord’s function. It is up to you to choose the colors for particular cord categories, but you can use different strategies.
For example, you can use blue color for PCs, green ones for telephones, and yellow for TVs. If you are in an office environment, how about using blue to mark internal network cables, red for the cords separating those from an external network, and yellow for external cables?
Feel free to come up with a system that works for you. If you cannot memorize, you can write down which color represents which function. The only thing to ensure is that you don’t assign a wrong color when putting up the cord, and everything will work flawlessly. Thanks to the color-coding, you will easily find your way even in the most complex cord system.
Smartphones are gadgets that you use every day. The chances are you wouldn’t last a couple of hours without your cellphone. Not only you stay in contact with people, but you also use it to browse the internet and play games. You probably paid hundreds of dollars for your phone, so why are you trying to save on a charging unit that costs $10?
A difference exists between non-polarized and polarized cords. The charger you buy will be a non-polarized power cord, which means both prongs are completely the same in terms of size and shape.
It is vital to buy a top-quality charging cord because it has better component quality. If you go cheap, you will end up with poor materials that are a safety risk. The experts recommend to look for a UL certificate and try to ensure it is unique.
You will find many so-called experts that advise rolling the cord when storing it. However, if you are bending the cable often, you might break the wires inside. These wires are delicate, and bending puts them under stress, which may cause breakage. If you roll the cable, the chances are you will be looking for a replacement power cord soon.
Instead, you want to go with the “roadie wrap” technique. The approach implies coiling the cords but ensuring that you switch loop directions with each coil. A Velcro tie can be convenient for securing the cord from unraveling. That way, there won’t be sharp bends, and the wire won’t be under stress.
An extension cord is an incredibly functional and convenient item. Although the idea is to use it temporarily, it becomes a permanent solution in many locations.
You may need to get electricity for your computer power cord from across the room, and you end up with a cable in the middle of the area. That is unattractive, which is why you push it under the carpet, and that’s where problems begin.
A cord placed under the carpet can easily overheat, but that is not the only issue. The chances are everyone will be stepping on the cord, which may damage the wires and affect their functionality. The experts explain that this cord loses the ability to transfer current over time, and that increases fire hazard.
Each cord has its amperage and wattage rating, and it needs to be able to handle the power that the appliance requires. If your C5 power cord can handle 15 Amps and 1,500W, it is vital not to exceed that capability. In case you do, you run a risk of malfunction and other safety issues.
Apart from overloading the cords, you can increase safety by using a single appliance per cord. It is an excellent way to ensure you don’t put too much burden on a cord, which can also cause short circuits and overheating issues.
Finally, let’s clear up in case you have any dilemma. Power cords are extremely safe devices that can be very useful around your home, office, or even in outdoor environments. Like any other product, you only need to follow guidelines for using it properly. If you do that, you can rest assured that power cords will last for a long time, and serve you flawlessly!
Since you're so keen on an anti-Code solution, Imma give you one.
We're gonna do exactly ThreePhaseEel's "isolated section of permanent wiring" which is Code correct. With a couple of modifications to cut corners the way you like, and we'll swerve out of our way to violate Code once or twice so you feel like we're saving money. I'll tell you when that happens.
Junction boxes -- $5 + $2/extra box. Put 'em anywhere you want - better to hardwire these boxes than drape extension cords. $1 junction box, I'd mount it within 1" of the floor to remove any issue of wire being unprotected, but at least 3/8" above the floor so the cover plates fit. If it'll be exposed to foot traffic, use a $1 metal Handy-box and metal cover plate. Many boxes have built in cable strain reliefs, if not get a 50 cent cable clamp will do. Insert a 50 cent receptacle and a 20 cent cover plate.
One more box. The perfect location is under the house, yet where the cord that'll be dangling from this box is wholly visible from outside. This is the transition box between house wiring and a flexible power cord that will plug into the generator. This gets a $1 steel Handy-Box with two cable clamps and a 30 cent blank box cover. (I know I'm kinda gold-plating this thing).
Cables -- scrounge or $10-ish. Now, connect all these junction boxes with cable, starting at the funny near-outside box. Just hop from box to box. Leave 7-8" of extra length inside each box. If you only have one box this is super easy.
You know what... I don't really care whether you use NM-B or UF-B.... #14 or #12... or /2 or /3 cable. The upside of NM-B /3 is it's round, so it fills a round hole easily with no air gap, don't use the red wire. I would scrounge/mooch these cables, everybody's got short lengths of NM or UF left over. Hit the Habitat for Humanity store. Whatevs. Don't use extension cord for this.
This is gonna get a 15A plug into a 13A generator so I'm comfortable with using 15A cable (#14). If you expected to plug it into a 20A generator, maybe #12 would worthwhile. Your call.
If you use UF-B, you could take that outside so you actually could fit an inlet for $20+. But I don't see you doing that.
The line cord - scrounge or $7. Now, scrounge around for any appliance cord or roached extension cord that is 14 AWG or larger, and has a good "plug end" for as long as you'll need to get from that Handy-box to a convenient place to either put the generator or an extension cord to the generator. Lop off the socket end if it has one.
Fit this line cord into the handy-box using the other cable clamp. About 7" into the box. This is where we violate Code. We're supposed to fit an inlet to the outside of the building. Draping a cord is naughty, but I'm not sure what we violated. Probably somewhere in 400.8 (allowed use of flexible cords) or 110.12 (pride of workmanship).
Hook it up (45 cents). Inside the near-outside handy-box, splice the 3 wires with wire-nuts (15 cents). You'll be joining solid to stranded wire but that is fine. Put the cover on it. On the receps, hook them up the normal way. Awright, we're done. Light it up.
That said, a generator is the expensive way to power a little bit of electronics. Try a 12V solar system: 2 used golf cart batteries + about 50W solar panel + a MorningStar SunGuard PWM controller, plus appropriate cigarette lighter USB adapters etc. While a great deal more than this, it'd be cheaper than this + fuel.
Man, just buying a gas can in this day and age, what the hey happened to the price of gas cans? And the stupid valves??? That right there makes me mad enough to go solar.